This small village (pop. approx.500) is situated on a peninsular running south to the mouth of the Wooli River.The river drains the area from the coast range on the south east of the Clarence River. Its creeks in their upper reaches pass through small pockets of rain forest with Bangalow palms and native hardwoods.
The neighboring state forests have been home to wild Brumbies which, when I was little would roam down to grassy flats along some of the upper creeks.
We would swim the river, and then run as fast as we could along the sandy shallows hoping with all of our hearts that we could catch one of the many stingrays resting in their hollows in the sand. They would always shoot off leaving a sandy fog in the water just as we were a few steps away. (It was years before we learnt that they had a poisionous barb on their tails). In the clearing on the banks of the first creek, we would see the horses, and would attempt to sneak up close and not frighten them. Once or twice someone might manage to brush a soft velvetly nose before they would all take fright and gallop off through the casurinas. These trees were a joy to climb. Up we would go untill our small weight would cause them to slowly bend over and letting go with our feet we would be lowered gently back on the ground.
Many kangaroo, wallaby and occasionly emus can be seen from the river, and once when trolling slowly for flathead, coming around a bend into abreeze we saw a dingo bitch with six pups suckling in the sun on the sandy shore. It was a wonderful minute or so untill she realized we were there and shot through. Jabiru and osprey are also there along with many more common birds.
It is wonderfull to know that the land is to be always protected for our future generations as this is all included in Yuraygir National Park. The park stretches from Angourie in the north near Yamba, down the coast throgh the villages of Brooms Head, Sandon on the Sandon River, Minnie Water, Diggers Camp, Wooli (on the Wooli river) pass Station creek opening from a lagoon to the ocean, and finishing at the Red Rock River, at the village of Red Rock.
But not only the land, but the waterways are now also protected. The area from the southern side of the Sandon River down to Coffs Harbour and seawards to the 50 meter depth contour or the 3 mile State limit are included in the Solitary Islands Marine Reserve.
Fishing is allowed in the area, although there are some restrictions on some activities and the taking of marine life from some sensitive areas.
The Solitary Islands have a growing reputation for the wonderful diving amongst soft corals and the intermingling of tropical and temperate fish.
Many fishermen put to sea from Wooli, but as it is a river Bar always exercise caution.
The neighbouring villages of Diggers Camp and Minnie Water both have Bays from which boats put to sea, however the later would be my pick.
I can remember in the late fifties or early sixties, The main street of Minnie Water was the Beach. The place was called "Wirefence" then and consisted of perhaps 20 houses. There was also a petrol station down there. The bowser was on of those tall thin ones with a glass section on top. You had to pump the handle to fill the glass up to the desired amount marked on the glass, then when the hose was in the tank, squeeze the handle and the fuel would drain. 2 wheel drive cars can travel along the beach, although the incoming tide should be watched as several cars over the years have had seawater splash around them ( and some, through them!).
After a several cyclones in one year, the local Ulmarra shire had the houses moved from the beach to the land behind. There has been a Lands Dept. subdivision on the hills behind the beach, but now this is all surrounded by Yuragir National Park so no more land will be released.
This coastline has beaches for everyone. There are excellent walks around headlands and camping is provided in several spots by the National Parks.
The village of Angourie is famous around the world for its surf. Former World Champion surfer Nat Young now lives and has business interests there. But luckerly for the surfers just to the south many people dont know about the other spots that they have driven pass.
I have many memories from my surfing along these beaches but one I often think of now was one day at Jones' Beach, on the Southern side of the river in 1966 or 67, there was a EsE swell wrapping aroud the beach and great long walls were holding up all along the beach. The break was about 4 - 6ft. and breaking in nice hollow rights. the rides took us from the point all the way to the river flowing out pass the black sandstone cliffs , this being before the breakwalls were built. The water was crystal clear, the water and air was warm, and I guess God was in his heaven, however apart from having this beauty to be shared between myself and two friends, the reason I think about it was the sight I saw walking back to the point after a long ride. There in the surf in about two or three foot of water,with the white foam washing around it, stood a small Kangaroo, back to the waves with them splashing up its back. Just in from it in shallower water was a dingoe. Obviously out of its depth and unsure of what to do next. I stood for perhaps ten minutes watching the war of wills between these two wild animals and marvelled at the intelligence being shown. On land there would be no doubt as to the outcome, but here, the kangaroo had outsmarted the dog. Any closer and the 'roo would be able to drown the dog,and although I didn't see an attempt, the dog was very wary. He eventually gave up and after a little while the Kangaroo came in and hopped off in the opposite direction to the dog.
Whales numbers are increasing each year, but when I was young, and my father was fishing professionaly from Wooli, I would listen to the few, perhaps 1 or 2 per year, stories of a sighting of a humpback whale, or of a killer whale, and then every moment I had spare for the next few days I would sit up high on the terrace searching the horizon for a speck of spray that would show me the location of my very own Moby Dick. Gradually my enthusiasm would wane, but the habit is still there when I see the Ocean.
In the early seventies the Whaling Stations at Bryon Bay (just north, maybe one and a half hours drive) and at Eden (south at the bottom of NSW.) were closed, and despite the Japanese killing these creatures to see how much wax is in their ears, (they call it researce, counting the rings on the ear wax like the rings of a tree to find out their age. And, oh yes, it would be a shame to just waste the animal now that it is dead wouldn't it!)
In the mid seventies, late on afternoon surfing at Wilson's Headland, ( at the northern end of the Wooli beach, I was in the water alone, (my brother was on the shore watching), when I heard an almighty splash! Looking frantically around, I saw in the next swell out, a killer whale broaching out of the wave and then coming down with another huge splash. Its' huge black and white colored body and the large dorsal fin bent to one side, didn't fill me with wonder, but more like terror as I spun my board around and frantically paddled for the shore with images of being beneath the next broach.
The next day the winds had changed, with a southerly front coming through in the night, I was enjoying a surf even though it was still a confused sea, when, yes, there was that splash again! A quick look around and there was that bent fin. Another record paddle to the shore. (A close encounter of the mammorth kind!)
Recently, only a few years ago, from the terrace next to our family home, I observed a cow and her calf swimming parallel to the beach travelling north. Just to the south of me, perhaps a hundred yards or so a gutter, came in close to the shore allowing the pair to swim within yards of the beach. The ocean was flat, and I wished for my camera. Could I run home and retrieve it or do I stay and watch? A bit of both! Watch, watch, watch almost here, watch, close, or so close now, magnificent, oh wow , beautiful, now run back for the Camera, yes now back to the beach and ... there they go out to sea, now to far away to photograph, now sounding, oh well, wrong choice!
Now if you listen on the marine radio to the fishermen to the south, you might hear them telling each other of whales as they make progress up the coast during their annual migrations to calve in the warm waters of Queensland.
Many charter boats all along the coast now provide the oportunity for many to enjoy the thrill of seeing these beautiful gentle giants up close. Do not miss this experience. It's something to remember for life.
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